Lop, Rex, Netherland, Dwarf, Dutch.

Today's domestic rabbits are descendants of wild rabbits from Europe and Africa. Herbivorous by nature, they eat only vegetable matter. Rabbits are not rodents, but are classified as Lagomorphs.

Rabbits, even those allowed free access to the house, should have a space they can call their own. You may plan a custom habitat for your bunny in the future, but it is advisable to start with a store bought cage so that you can see what features work best. The size of the cage should depend on how much time is spent inside it. The longer the time, the larger it should be. Suggested minimum size for one rabbit is five feet by two feet, with access to the house or an exercise area.

Look for a cage with at least one large door, the bigger the better. Litterboxes, toys, food bowls and sometimes a reluctant bunny have to be pulled through that door. A cage with a slide-out tray is much easier to clean than one that has to be lifted off the tray. The tray catches all the debris and spillover from the cage litterbox, as well as the accumulated hair and hay from the cage floor. Once you see what features you need in a permanent home for your rabbit, you may want to either remodel her store-bought cage or design one to fit with your decor.

It is important to remember that your rabbit's cage is not her entire living space. Rabbits are active, inquisitive, intelligent animals that need stimulation and a social environment. The stereotype of the rabbit huddled outside in the small wire hutch is just that, a stereotype. A cage carries a different connotation when used as a resting burrow and not as a prison. For too long rabbits have been mislabeled, misunderstood and underrated as companions.

Rabbits are easily trained to use a litterbox, which can be kept in their cage or in an appropriate area of the house. For information on litterbox training your rabbit, request a PAWS House Rabbit Packet. The choice of litter is important. Cedar and pine shavings should not be used. Rabbits using aromatic softwood litters often are found to have elevated liver enzymes, a sign that the liver isn't working properly. Airborne clay dust (silica) can irritate a rabbit's mucus membranes. The best litter to use is some sort of organic litter. Commercial brands, such as Care Fresh (made from paper) or Cat Country (made from plant materials) are acceptable and will not harm your rabbit if eaten. Another good litter is straw -- which your rabbit will enjoy nibbling on while using the box and which then makes wonderful compost for your garden.

Your rabbit should be plentifully supplied with toys. Rabbits need harmless chewables to satisfy their gnawing instincts and derive great pleasure from their toys. Cardboard paper towel or toilet roles are good, as are round oatmeal containers with both ends cut out. A juice can with a pebble taped inside or a baby rattle are good toss toys for rabbits. Even an empty paper bag or cardboard box on the floor will provide hiding and chewing enjoyment for a rabbit. Untreated scrap wood or firewood with bark make good chewing, as well as small tree branches. Exceptions are cherry, peach, apricot, plum and redwood, which can prove toxic.

Thirty percent of your rabbit's diet should be a good quality, commercial rabbit pellet. Buy pellets as fresh as possible and store them in a cool dry place. Moldy or rancid pellets can kill a rabbit. Most rabbits should have free access to pellets at all times, unless you are directed otherwise by your veterinarian. A daily handful of hay aids in the mechanics of digestion and helps prevent many intestinal disorders. Legume hays, such as alfalfa and clover, are high in protein and most appropriate for young rabbits. Older and overweight rabbits can be offered grass or oat hays.

Rabbits enjoy treats, but knowing what treats to give and how much to give are very important. Rabbits have very delicate digestive systems, and too much of some foods can have dire consequences. Fresh fruits and vegetables can be offered in small to moderate amounts. At the first sign of diarrhea, cut back. Good vegetables to try are carrots, broccoli, parsley, radish tops, clover, dandelion greens, blackberry vines/leaves and beet greens. Also be careful of houseplants. Although you do not intend these as food, your rabbit may see it otherwise, and many are poisonous to rabbits.

All rabbits should have a yearly examination by a veterinarian. You should also seek help if your rabbit shows any of the following symptoms of ill health: sneezing or sniffling, discharge from the eyes or nose, diarrhea, decreased food intake, change in urine or feces, or weight gain or loss.

Two of the biggest health concerns of rabbits have to do with their digestive system. Rabbits teeth grow constantly and must grind against each other in order to remain at a proper length. If the teeth do not meet properly, it is termed a malocclusion. If the misalignment is bad, the rabbit's teeth will need to be clipped periodically so she can eat -- usually every two or four weeks. This can be done by a veterinarian or someone skilled in the practice.

The biggest cause of health problems and death in rabbits are hairballs. Rabbits shed their coat every three months, and ingest significant amounts of fur while grooming. While shedding, your rabbit should be brushed daily. Unlike cats, rabbits can't vomit hairballs. The hair forms a mass that fills the rabbit's stomach and can kill her or make her very ill. Symptoms of hairballs include decrease in dropping size, with the droppings often strung together by hair. As time goes on, the rabbit may appear fat because of an enlarged stomach filled with hair, although her back will become bony.

Preventing hairballs is crucial for rabbits of all hair lengths. A daily ration of hay and adequate exercise are important preventative procedures. You can also give your rabbit a cat hairball remedy, such as Laxatone or Petromalt. Give this once a week. During shedding season increase to once a day. If your rabbit won't lick the substance off your finger, smear it on a paw for her to lick off. Another preventative solution is to give papaya tablets several times a week. These enzyme-containing tablets are eaten like candy by rabbits, and help keep their digestive system clear.

We highly recommend that your rabbit be spayed or neutered, even if they are an "only" rabbit. Studies show that between 80-95% of unspayed female rabbits will develop ovarian or uterine cancer between two and five years of age. A house rabbit can live eight to ten years. When done by a qualified veterinarian, the risk to your rabbit is small compared to the benefits. Male rabbits benefit from neutering in that aggressive behavior is calmed and they will no longer spray urine to mark their territory. In addition, altered pairs of rabbits can enjoy the companionship of a pair bond without the resulting offspring, so many of which never find homes. Call (206) 365-9105 (press 2, then 1) for a list of qualified veterinarians in this area who can perform spay or neuter surgery for your rabbit.

"House Rabbit Journal" (approx. $12 per year), write House Rabbit Society, P.O. Box 1201, Alameda, CA, 94501

The House Rabbit Handbook By Marinell Harriman, Drollery Press, Alameda, CA, 1991