PAWS

Attachment Disorders in Dogs

Given the importance of social relationships to dogs, it is not surprising that those who are prevented from forming attachments during the critical periods of development, or who suffer trauma of abandonment, isolation, disruption or neglect frequently appear to have their ability to form social bonds impaired. The behavioral patterns evidenced by dogs with such a history cluster at opposite ends of the attachment spectrum, manifesting as either separation anxiety, or detachment.

Separation anxiety

Dogs suffering from separation anxiety form new bonds readily, but there is a desperate, clinging quality to the attachments, and great distress when left alone. These dogs quickly learn their owner's routines when they are preparing to leave, and display hypervigilance and rising anxiety as the departure approaches. Upon being left alone, these dogs may vocalize, urinate, defecate, destroy objects, or even aggressively attack the owner as he attempts to leave. the severity of these behaviors, which, and how many occur, varies widely among individuals and breeds.

The diagnosis clues which allow separation anxiety-driven behavior to be distinguished from the same behavior(i.e. destructive chewing and digging) with other causes are:
  • the behavior occurs only when the dog is left alone (or left by the person to whom he is attached)
  • it occurs every time the triggering absence occurs
  • it occurs immediately, or very shortly (usually within 20 minutes) after the departure
Typical Profile: common features of separation-anxious dogs
  • Adopted from a shelter, taken in as a stray, or rescued from an abuse or abandonment situation
  • Is extremely devoted, following owner closely whenever possible
  • greets owner extravagantly after separation
  • Reacts with mounting distress to owner's preparations to leave
There is little evidence of any significance in:
  • Age
  • Sex
  • Fear of noises or objects
  • Social confidence (fear of stranger or unfamiliar settings)
  • "Spoiling" by owner or previous owner

Adopted strays or rescued dogs may begin to display both the extreme attachment and the anxiety about being left almost immediately after acquiring a new home--usually within the first week. For a behaviorist or trainer familiar with separation anxiety, it is relatively clear in these cases what is going on. If the new owner is willing to work with the animal, the prognosis is good. Desensitization and counter-conditioning are so effective that one can honestly call this problem 99% solvable.

Less obvious cases

More difficult to diagnose are those dogs who suddenly begin to show the undesirable behaviors when left alone, after having established good habits and appeared reliable previously. The owner or consultant wonders, "what's going on here? Is the dog spoiled? Bored? Exhibiting symptoms of a medical problem?" In these cases, separation anxiety is often the last thing considered, because it seems so unlikely and so inexplicable. But, if the behavior fits the separation anxiety pattern, and if any of the following are true, the chances are that the cause is separation anxiety:

  • Has there been a recent change in the schedule or routines of the household?(could be the return to work of someone previously unemployed, or a child going to college, or similar disruption of an established relationship)
  • Has the dog experienced the recent loss of a companion-- either another animal, or person to whom he was attached
  • Has the household relocated to another residence recently?

Dogs whose anxiety stems from grief over the loss of a companion may simply be mourning their loss and experiencing loneliness; but they might also be anxious about the disappearance of those they love. Many experienced dog people recommend that if a family member dies(including companion animals) that the dog be given an opportunity to see, smell and touch the body. Loneliness is a problem that can be addressed by an owner sensitive to the dog's need for companionship, but the grieving process is normal and will pass in time.

Behavior indicating anxiety that seems to result from disruption or moving will diminish as new routines are established. Desensitizing and counter-conditioning will contribute to the dog's sense of security.

Detachment: the "lone wolf' syndrome

Although not, strictly speaking, a "behavior problem" in itself, the dog who does not form bonds with his human companions is often a disappointment to them. The problem behaviors usually attributed to the independent, aloof dog are escape-oriented destructiveness, and disobedience when free from direct control.

Dogs whose only companions during the critical first 4 months often remain throughout their lives extremely dog-oriented, preferring to meet their social needs with members of their own species. If their early experiences with humans do not cause them to develop a fear of people, these dogs are often quite friendly and gregarious, seeking human company as well as canine. However, they are unlikely to form strong attachments to any particular humans. If placed in a home with no other canine family members, these dogs will take off at any opportunity to seek canine company elsewhere. They may be induced to form some social bonds to humans through attachment to an intermediary dog-buddy who is very devoted to his owners, but his primary attachment is likely to remain to the dog.

Few dogs are true loners, because both the physical and the social dependency phases of their development overlap to such a degree that most puppies could not survive without developing some attachments. However, the different breeds vary in the degree of social dependency typical for adults. The sight hounds are comparatively aloof toward people, huskies are typically more dog-oriented than other breeds, and the scent hounds, bred to hunt in packs, are frequently independent, action-oriented characters.

Comparing separation-anxious dogs to detached, aloof dogs, it is easy to see why more research has been done into the causes and cures for separation-anxiety. Anxious dogs, even though their behavior problems are frustrating and difficult to live with, are devoted animals who meet their owners' emotional needs much better than do detached, independent dogs, or dogs who clearly prefer other dogs' company. The anxious dogs are eager to please, hence responsive to training. They won't willingly leave their owner's side. They are highly empathetic and tuned in to their owner's state of mind to such a degree that they appear telepathic. Detached, independent dogs tend to disappear eventually, and we suspect that frequently, no one bothers to look for them.

Desensitizing and counter-conditioning techniques for separation anxiety.

Before beginning to work with separation anxiety, it is important that the owner understand that a dog driven by anxiety to destructiveness, house-soiling or frantic vocalizing is not able to control these behaviors! Therefore, it is not a problem to be solved by punishment! It is absolutely necessary to lower the dog's distress before he can learn acceptable behaviors. To do this requires the following process of de-sensitizing the dog to the owner's departures, and to being alone. Once some progress has been made, counter-conditioning- that is, teaching the dog to do something when he is left alone that precludes his anxious, destructive or vocal behavior- can begin to change the way the dog feels about being alone.

Desensitization
  • Start by deliberately lowering the emotional tone of both greetings and departures. Anxious dogs over-react to both. Be cheerful but casual when arriving home. Don't withhold affection, but lavish it on him when he is not overwrought.
  • Knowing that the dog can correctly anticipate departures by observing preparations and routines, the owner should scramble those cues! Put on a jacket, pick up keys and purse, and then go read the paper.
  • Go out to the car in pajamas and drive around the block! Go through the motions of getting ready for work on a holiday, go out to the car several times, then do something around the house.
  • Every day, several times a day, leave the dog alone for brief intervals. Begin by closing a door between the owner and the dog inside the house, for just a minute or two. Discover what his anxiety threshold is, and stay below it-- even if it's only 30 seconds! Progress is achieved by minute increments in this. Gradually extend the absences, but vary the lengths.

It is useful to know the dog's pattern when in the throes of panic over separation. Some are the most distressed as the owner walks out the door, quickly expend all their energy and then subside. Others work themselves up to a full frenzy within the first 15 or 20 minutes after being left alone.

Desensitizing occurs when the dog is taken almost to the point of distress, again and again, until habituated to the stressor-- in this case, the owner's absence, or continued absence.

Counter-conditioning

When the animal has been somewhat desensitized so that he is no longer incapable of learning while the owner is away, one can teach him to search for an object that will be enjoyable and distracting, and then occasionally give the search command just before leaving the dog. Kong toys have been used in this way, putting a treat inside the core which the dog then works to get out. Finding a hidden favorite toy may work, and there is no reason a fly-ball machine could not serve equally well. To work, it is necessary that the dog enjoy the activity, that the activity be offered ONLY before leaving the dog, but NOT always before leaving.

Safe Confinement

Because the behaviors of dogs driven by separation anxiety often endanger household furnishings and the dog himself, having a safe method of confinement is essential for those times when the owner must leave-- to go to work, for instance-- before the desensitization process has been completed.

Crating such a dog often makes the panic worse. Training to accept crating is a good idea for the long haul, but it is not an immediate solution. A sturdy kennel set up in a utility room or kitchen (if house-soiling occurs) or in an interior room (if vocalizations are the problem) should be furnished minimally: a water bowl that affixes firmly to the wall, no food, and no toys which could hurt the dog if frantically chewed, perhaps a piece of carpet to lie on, should be safest. A veterinarian can and should prescribe tranquilizers for this interim period if the dog is so distressed that he hurts himself trying to escape.

When the owner is committed to the dog, the methods outlined here will work very well. In nearly all cases, the Spartas confinement and desensitizing measures can be dispensed with as the dog develops a normal tolerance for being left alone. However, these dogs may remain anxiety-prone all their lives, and when under stress require a brief repetition of the desensitizing process.

Return to Dog Fact Sheets.


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